Dry first, treat only what needs it, deodorize, and dry fully before the sheets go back on. A calm routine for a fresher sleep surface.
To clean a mattress, remove all bedding, inspect the surface and care label, vacuum the top, sides, seams, and underside, spot-clean stains with the least moisture possible, deodorize with baking soda, dry fully, and vacuum again. Use minimal liquid on foam or memory foam mattresses to reduce the risk of moisture damage.
A mattress can collect dust, sweat, body oils, dead skin, pet dander, spills, and odors over time. Cleaning it every few months helps keep your sleep surface fresher, but the safest method is usually a dry-first, low-moisture approach: vacuum thoroughly, treat only the areas that need it, deodorize, and dry the mattress fully before putting sheets back on.
Before you start, gather:
Always check the mattress care label before applying moisture, peroxide, steam, or a commercial cleaner. Test any cleaner on a small hidden area first, especially if the mattress cover is colored, delicate, or textured. Hydrogen peroxide and stronger stain treatments can lighten fabric, so use them sparingly and only where needed.
Strip the bed completely. Remove sheets, pillowcases, blankets, mattress pads, and mattress protectors. Wash washable bedding according to the care label.
This step matters because sheets and protectors collect sweat, body oils, skin cells, allergens, and spills before they reach the mattress. Washing bedding regularly keeps that buildup from transferring back onto a freshly cleaned sleep surface.
Check the surface in daylight before reaching for a cleaner. Note where the stains are, what colour they are, whether any area smells when you put your face close to it, and whether the fabric feels damp or cool anywhere. A mattress with two old coffee marks needs a different job from one with a fresh pet accident, and the routine below scales down as easily as it scales up. Check the care label at the same time — it decides whether moisture, peroxide, or steam are options at all.
Use a clean upholstery attachment across the entire surface, working slowly over the top, sides, seams, handles, edges, and any tufted or quilted areas, then switch to the crevice tool for seams, piping, and stitched channels where dust and grit settle. Vacuuming first matters because it removes dry debris before any cleaner is introduced — anything left on the surface turns to residue the moment it gets damp.
Do not spray cleaner across the entire mattress unless the care label specifically allows it. Treat visible stains one at a time, keeping the cleaner on a clean cloth rather than pouring it onto the mattress.
Once stain-treated areas are no longer wet, sprinkle a thin, even layer of baking soda over the mattress. Baking soda helps absorb moisture and neutralize odor. For light freshening, leave it for at least 15–30 minutes. For stronger odors, leave it for several hours or longer if you have time. If odor comes from urine, vomit, pet accidents, or mildew, treat the source first — baking soda does not replace that treatment.
Because the mattress has to stay uncovered while the baking soda works, start this in the morning rather than the evening. That gives the powder a full working day and leaves the bed usable by night. The evening before a night away works just as well.
Open windows, turn on a fan, and give the mattress as much airflow as possible. Do not put sheets, blankets, or a mattress protector back on until the mattress is fully dry.
This is one of the most important steps. Too much moisture can lead to odor, mildew, mold, or damage to comfort materials. A lightly spot-cleaned area may dry in a few hours, while a deeper clean can need most of the day depending on material, room temperature, humidity, and ventilation. Never mix cleaning products, especially bleach with ammonia-based cleaners.[5]
After the baking soda has sat long enough and the mattress is dry, vacuum again with the upholstery attachment. Move slowly to remove powder from the surface, especially around seams and quilted areas.
Once the mattress is clean and dry, add a washable mattress protector before making the bed. A protector helps prevent sweat, body oils, spills, urine, and pet accidents from reaching the mattress.
A standard protector covers the top and sides. A full encasement zips around all six faces of the mattress, which is what you want if bed bugs or a recurring odour from below are the concern, or if the mattress has already been treated once.
Different stains need different cleaners. The safest rule is to blot, not scrub, and to use the smallest amount of liquid that can do the job.
| Stain type | Best cleaner | Method | Caution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Urine | Enzyme cleaner or diluted white vinegar | Blot liquid, lightly mist cleaner, blot again, dry, add baking soda | Do not soak the mattress |
| Blood | Cold water, mild detergent, or hydrogen peroxide | Blot with cold solution until stain lifts | Cold water only — heat sets protein stains |
| Sweat or yellow stains | Mild detergent or diluted hydrogen peroxide | Spot-clean, blot, and dry fully | Spot-test peroxide on a hidden area first |
| Vomit | Remove solids, use diluted vinegar or enzyme cleaner | Blot, deodorize with baking soda, dry | Ventilate well |
| Pet stains | Enzyme cleaner | Follow product directions, blot, and dry | Repeat if odor remains |
| Oil or lotion | Dish soap solution | Dab lightly, then blot dry | Avoid over-wetting |
For biological stains such as blood, sweat, urine, vomit, and pet accidents, an enzyme cleaner is often the most practical choice because it targets odor-causing organic residue. Hydrogen peroxide can help with some tough discoloration, but it may lighten fabric, so test first and use it only in small amounts.
For fresh urine, blot up as much liquid as possible with towels. Press firmly, but do not rub. Then use an enzyme cleaner or a lightly sprayed vinegar solution, blot again, and cover the area with baking soda once the surface is no longer wet. Let it dry fully, then vacuum.
For dried urine stains, an enzyme cleaner is usually more effective because urine odor can remain deeper in the mattress. Apply according to the product instructions, avoid soaking the mattress, and repeat after drying if odor remains. With pet accidents, removing the odor fully is important because lingering scent can attract pets back to the same spot.
Drying is not optional. A mattress that feels slightly damp can trap moisture under sheets and create musty odor.
To dry a mattress faster:
Good ventilation, open windows, a fan, and a dehumidifier can help the mattress dry more evenly. Aim to dry damp areas as quickly as possible; the longer moisture sits inside fabric or foam, the higher the risk of musty odor, mildew, or mold.
Sometimes a mattress is too damaged or contaminated to clean safely at home. Professional mattress cleaning uses chemical formulations, high-temperature water, and often steam, so it is not a step to reach for casually. Consider professional cleaning or replacement if:
If a mattress has mold or persistent moisture problems, cleaning the surface may not solve the underlying issue. Visible mold, recurring musty odor, or dampness inside the mattress should be treated as a serious sign that the mattress may need professional assessment or replacement.[3]
You can steam clean some mattresses, but only if the care label allows it and you can dry the mattress completely. Steam adds heat and moisture, which can be risky for foam, memory foam, old mattresses, or rooms with poor ventilation.
Avoid steam cleaning when:
Use steam or upholstery-cleaning machines only when the mattress is allowed to get slightly damp and you can dry it fully afterward. When in doubt, choose spot-cleaning and airflow instead of adding heat and moisture.
Memory foam needs extra caution because it is not designed to get wet. Use the same cleaning sequence: vacuum, spot-clean, deodorize, dry, but use less liquid and avoid soaking the foam.
For memory foam:
Memory foam absorbs moisture easily and can be slow to dry, so a low-moisture approach is the safest choice. Keep cleaning solution near the surface, blot gently, and give the foam plenty of airflow before using the bed again.
Avoid these common mattress-cleaning mistakes:
Avoid bleach unless the care label clearly allows it, because it can damage mattress fabric and leave harsh residue. Never mix cleaning chemicals, especially bleach with ammonia-based products, because the fumes can be dangerous.
Clean your mattress about every 3–6 months, and spot-clean spills or stains immediately. If you have allergies, pets, night sweats, children, or frequent spills, clean and vacuum it more often.
For most homes, a full refresh every three to six months is a practical schedule. If the mattress has a protector and stays clean, the longer end of that range is usually enough; if there are spills, pets, allergies, or night sweats, clean sooner and spot-treat stains right away.
The best way to clean a mattress is to prevent dirt and liquid from reaching it in the first place.
Use these habits:
A waterproof protector, regular sheet washing, and fewer food or drink spills in bed will reduce stains and allergen buildup. Washable covers and occasional rotation, when the manufacturer allows it, also help keep the mattress cleaner and more evenly worn.
No. Slightly damp is the condition that causes musty odour and mildew, because the sheets trap what is left. Wait until no area feels cool to the back of your hand.
Dish soap handles oil and general grime. Biological stains — urine, blood, sweat, vomit, pet accidents — need an enzyme cleaner, because the problem is organic residue rather than colour. Whatever you use, keep in mind that detergent is difficult to rinse out of a mattress, so choose something mild and lightly scented and use as little as possible.
Current information last reviewed: August 5, 2026